Something I noticed in Denmark last year is that things in this part of the world seem to start later than in the US. I walked around Copenhagen in the early morning and did not see many people. It was a work day, so I should have seen commuters and people headed to trains and buses. Here in Finland, the taxi ride to the ferry was remarkable for the lack of traffic. I think I saw one car and a truck. In America, at least on the East Coast, traffic jams start at 6:30 AM. Most people are in the office by 8:30 AM.
I wonder if it is not the warping effect of New York. Whenever I have spent time on the West Coast of America, I’ve noticed that the day starts earlier and ends earlier. It’s like they are still on NY time. I have business associates in Los Angeles and I get e-mail from them at 9:00 AM my time, which means 6:00 AM their time. The secret handshake society I will be attending, at an undisclosed location, will start after lunch. The one in Denmark last year started at 2:00 PM and ran until 7:00 PM…
The ferry over to Estonia is a pretty cool thing, but another great example of things you can have or you can have diversity. The cars getting onto the ferry line up and go through an orderly process of driving onto the ferry. In America, the vibrant would be smashing into one another and getting into fights while going through the check-in, so that would mean an army of storm troopers to police the process. That would require commuters to line up hours in advance, which would mean a many hours long boarding process.
In Finland, the drivers get to the terminal an hour in advance and drive right through a quick check-in process. They drive onto the ferry and then head to the decks. The rest of us walked over a gangway to what is very much like a cruise ship. I was booked into the business section, which had a nice breakfast buffet, drinks, excellent WiFi and a staff to police the tables. I got a little work done, answered e-mails and spent the last hour reading a book while enjoying my second cup of coffee. The coffee was excellent…
My first impression of Tallinn, as I disembarked, was that it was dirty. Maybe it was the aftermath of winter, but the streets were caked with what looked like cinders. Where you get off the ferry is probably the least welcoming place, as it looks like a freight terminal that is under construction. In fact, most of Tallinn is under construction. Every other building is wrapped in plastic and the streets are torn up everywhere. This is not the best time for tourism, so maybe that’s why it seemed so grimy, but that was my first impression.
My second impression was that it stinks, stinks of diesel exhaust. It seems they have found a way to power everything with diesel, including bicycles and pets. When I walked out of the tunnel from the ferry to land, I was engulfed in a cloud of diesel exhaust from a passing truck. I’m surprised the EU permits it, but maybe they look the other way for the former communist countries. Maybe the Estonians just cheat. Either way, it reminded me of what it was like in America in the 80’s when city buses were like crop dusters…
Rather than follow the crowd to Old Town, I went the other direction and walked a dozen blocks to the east, then another dozen blocks or so south. If you look at a map, the tourist area is to the west, so I figured the real Tallinn was to the east. Given the history and layout of the city, my guess is the east is mostly built in the 20th century, but a lot of it dates to previous centuries. Estonia was a battle ground fought over by Danes, Russians, Germans, Swedes and Poles for most of its history, so it is tough to know.
For example, I walked past an apartment building, probably built in the middle of the last century. It was the drab concrete style popular with communists. Next to it was a cool looking old wood structure that would look at home on Cape Cod. Upon closer inspection, I saw it had undergone a recent renovation, so maybe it was old, but maybe it was just made to look like it dates to the 19th century. You can’t trust anything now. Even in a place like Estonia, everything is becoming a reproduction of a long gone culture of a foreign people.
If you want to get a sense of what life was like under the Soviets, walking around this part of Tallinn is a good way to do it. You see the old buildings and dilapidated old houses. It’s not a slum, but it has that aesthetic the Soviets were so famous for back during the Cold War. Lots of concrete and gray paint. The materialism of the Bolsheviks was really just the total lack of spiritual beauty. They were ugly people and that ugliness was made manifest their building and city planning. They were vulgar and depraved.
The other thing I noticed, or at least I think I noticed, is that Estonia is a country without an identity, other than a long list of historical grievances. The building and repairing is a rush to join the global economy, but it is not being done by the locals. They are just bystanders, as global interests invest in Tallinn. The Estonians working in the city could be Poles or Germans or space aliens, as far as the investors are concerned. Estonia is rushing to become a part of the consumer race…
Old Town Tallinn is a nice tourist trap. It is one of the best preserved medieval cities in Europe, so if you are a history buff, I highly recommend seeing it. You get a real sense of what urban life was like in the Middle Ages. One warning. You will walk a lot and do a lot of walking up hill on cobblestone streets and uneven walks. There’s also the fact it is laid out like a medieval city, which means the streets make no sense. I needed three tries to find the Nevsky Cathedral. I was pretty tired after a day of walking the city….
What do you do when you have no cell service, the fraud alert has shut down your credit cards, you have no cash and you’re in a strange foreign city? Well, let me explain. The people at my cell carrier said I would have no problem using my GSM phone in these counties. I would have to pay a fee to their partner here in Europe. This actually worked in Ireland, but it did not work in Denmark. I tried everything and finally got a burner in case I needed to make a call. I did not need it, but it was insurance.
In Finland, I was getting texts and e-mail over the cellular network, so I figured I was OK, as I never make calls anymore, just text and e-mail. In Estonia, I realized I had no cell service at all. I was not worried until I tried to buy something and all three credit cards were declined. To make matters worse, I had no cash of any type with me, as I planned to just charge everything. That meant I had no money and no way to call the credit card company to get the issue resolved. I was suddenly thinking about life in Estonia.
I found the tourist center, which will always have good free WiFi these days. I then downloaded Skype and setup a new account. I then called American Express using their toll free number, so I did not need credit on Skype. They turned my card back on and I used it to charge up the Skype account. Since Estonia has decent public WiFi, I figured that would get me through any more problems until I returned to a land in which the banks have greater trust. My next stop is Mother Russia, so…
As far as Tallinn, my guess is it serves Sweden and Finland as something like what Tijuana used to serve adventurous Americans. It’s a place to go to get crazy drunk and do things you don’t talk about upon your return. That’s just a hunch, but the way it is setup strikes me as that sort of thing. There’s a big open court in the middle of Old Town surrounded by cafes and bars. During the day, people shop and eat. In the evening, the crowd changes over and it becomes giant party with midgets and donkeys…
European butter and cheese is the greatest thing ever to an American. That’s because we have weird laws about dairy products to prevent small companies from competing with giant food corporations. Our dairy is not terrible, but it relatively flavorless compared to the European options. I have no opinion about which way is better, but I know I really love the taste of European dairy. I have probably consumed a pound of butter so far. Finnish egg butter is a nutty idea, but it is great spread over a freshly baked roll…
I visited the Nevsky Cathedral, which appears to be a working facility. They have signs up asking for donations. I walked in and the smell of incense brought back some memories, but the babushkas praying into front to the icons really brought back memories of the old women I remember as a boy. A church full of old women, though, is not a church. It is a museum. Does the shared culture collapse and then the churches follow, or is it that the churches fail and then the shared reality of the people follows? It’s a good question…
Men in Europe really like tight clothes. They really like suit jackets that are what Americas would see as a size too small. Even the portly guys have tight jackets and pants. The difference between Americans and Europeans is that the worst sin for a Euro is to be seen as boring, while the worst sin for an American is to be a phony. This shows up in men’s styles. European men look like they spent hours getting ready to go out, while American men want to look like they live in a house with no mirrors or hot water…
I saw three blacks in Tallinn. They were standing in front a restaurant called “Tabula Rasa.” On the street was a sign for the Final Four, the college men’s basketball tournament in America. I was overwhelmed by the urge to take a picture, but years of living in Lagos has trained me to avoid doing stuff like that. Still, after seeing the glory of Nevsky Cathedral, the whiff of incense still in my nostrils, I could not help but wonder if the man upstairs was gently reminding me that he is keeping an eye on me…
On my trips to this part of the world, I’ve noticed that women here are what we in America would call high maintenance. The men seem to put a lot of effort into doting on their women, while the women act like they deserve it plus more. In Copenhagen, I saw men pushing a cart in which their date would ride. Contrary to the Viking image, men in this part of the world seem almost henpecked. Given what we see with their politics, it’s clear that the culture veered into matriarchy at some point and politics followed.
Even if this is just a superficial affectation, it is interesting because of what we think caused the variety of eye colors, hair textures and hair colors in Northern European people. The most common explanation is that there was an imbalance between the sexes, as the males needed to engage in high risk activity like hunting large animals and fishing cold waters. The result was more girls than boys, which gave an edge to women with unusual eye and hair color, as far as the sexual marketplace.
A trait that offers an edge in terms of attracting a mate, especially for women in a world short of eligible men, is going to spread quickly. It would follow that women would be the pursuers, while the men could be indifferent. If things are the reverse today, then it suggests something important changed over the last many generations. Perhaps enough cads were killed off in wars to turn the tables, giving the doting males an edge. That would have changed the dynamic among women, making them high maintenance…
I am planning to take the train from Helsinki to St. Petersburg, so it meant taking the ferry back over the Gulf of Finland. I went to the taxi stand and to my surprise there was a black taxi driver. It turns out that there are at least two Nigerians in Helsinki, the cabbie and his mother. He took a call and I noted that he had a Muslim name. His Finnish was awful and his English something close to nonsense, so I would assume he grew up speaking his people’s native tongue. I had to program my destination into his GPS.
Of course, the reason for all of this is he was probably sporting an 80-IQ. I had practiced a handful of Finnish phrases, in case I needed to tell a Finnish speaker what I wanted. He did not understand what I said. He just pointed at his tablet and made the writing sign with his hand, so I got the idea. I entered the address and we were off, but he got lost in the port area somehow, so I had to help him get on the road. The GPS allows him to drive a taxi, which is a great example of how we make it easy for the stupid to survive.
When we finally got to my hotel, he became confused about how to enter or even how to get to the front gate. Finally, I yelled stop enough ways for him to get the idea. He was trying really hard to to do his job and for that I could not help but respect him, but he clearly lacked the intelligence to do it. He handed me the credit card machine, assuming I could work it, which led me to assume he could not, so I charged my taxi fare and walked the last block to the hotel. I had been driven by an unfrozen caveman.
I actually felt bad for him. Unlike our rulers, I get why second and third generation migrants become extremely hostile to the native populations. The first generation have enough on the ball to leave their native lands looking for a better life. It’s not enough to compete at a middling level in the West, but enough to compete at the bottom, which is a several steps up from what they can do back home. Being on welfare in the West is better than the good life in Nigeria, so migrating makes perfect sense to the first generation.
One way to think of the great replacement is to think of it as an effort to bring the bottom up, by importing a slightly better underclass. The little brown guys running leaf blowers in America and the migrants driving cabs in Europe are an upgrade to the native working classes, who the rulers see as too demanding and too lazy. The trouble is, the layer between the rulers and the lower classes is the middle class and they are the people paying the price for the ruler’s great demographic experiment.
What this is revealing is something that has been true for a long time, but the middle-class has been blind to it. That is, the ruling elites of the West are post-national and largely define themselves in opposition to the great middle-classes of the West. The more the middle balks at immigration, the more excited the managerial class gets for multiculturalism and mass migration. That’s because the louder the native complain, the more intense the managerial class sense of identity. They truly hate us…